Tears welled up in my eyes as I nodded to Kanchenjunga. It wasn’t that easy. I started my career as a kitchen boy. Serving world-renowned climbers, I have always dreamed of becoming the most successful climber, but I did not have the resources, but I worked hard, passion and enthusiasm.
This is to say of the famous Pakistani mountaineer Sarbaz Khan, who is the first Pakistani who has climbed ten peaks of 8000 meters altitude of the world.
Sarbaz Khan, a 35-year-old from Central Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan, recently won the award by climbing the world’s third highest peak, Kanchenjunga, in Nepal.
Before ascending this peak, Sarbaz Khan had climbed K2, Naga Parbat, Broad Peak, Lohatse, Manaslu Peak, Annapurna, Mount Everest, Gesherbrum II and Daulagiri.
Sarbaz Khan says, “I was happy but my wife, parents, children and siblings were happiest. They all joined me in my struggle. When we mountaineers go on an expedition, our family’s sleep is forbidden. We are at the top while they lose the peace of day and night.
“After climbing ten peaks, I am now heading for Summit 14. That is, I will now try to climb 14 peaks above the 8,000 mead in the world. I still have four left and only forty climbers in the world have done this feat so far.
Secretly traveling to Camp One and Two
“My father was a carpenter,” says Sarbaz Khan. My mother was a housewife. My childhood is as normal as that of ordinary people. Dad, we worked hard to raise three siblings. But my dreams were different. ”
Sarbaz Khan says, “I have been an athlete since childhood. I have been a part of Pakistan volleyball team while I play netball for Gilgit Baltistan. I have loved these lofty mountains since my childhood while the mountaineers who climbed these mountains were my heroes.
“I wanted to be a climber somehow,” he said. But there was no way out and no guidance. When I was in ninth grade, I got a kitchen boy in a tourism company.
Sarbaz Khan says, “I also worked as a porter and guide, but for a long time I worked as a kitchen boy.”
He says that as a kitchen boy, he had the opportunity to be close to and learn from some of the world’s most famous climbers. “I worked hard, but my love of being a climber always made me want to do something.”
Sarbaz Khan says that it was because of this love that he secretly traveled to G1, G2 and other mountains where he was serving at base camp many times.
“It simply came to our notice then. I now strictly forbid young people to never do that, it can be fatal. Once or twice he was caught, he was reprimanded by the company.
“But I was not ready to give up. It was this passion and hobby of mine that led Nepali mountaineer Mengmaji, who made it to winter for the first time, and advised me to become a mountaineer.
Meeting with Mengmaji in 2004
Sarbaz Khan says that this is the incident of 2004 when Mengma came to Pakistan to head GK2. “I was working as a kitchen boy at the K2K base camp at the time. There were two different groups at the K2 base camp at that time. I was running a service to these groups.
Mengmaji was watching me serve there. He said about me that I am a great mountaineer. He said that the soldiers are serving you by running at an altitude of 5,000 meters. During this time, your breath is not breathing and you are still fresh after so much hard work
Two things are essential for mountaineering: a strong lung and a heart. “You have both. You have to be a climber, not a kitchen boy! ‘
Sarbaz Khan says that it made me even more excited. “But I didn’t have a chance to climb until 2004/16 after 2004. I kept trying but unfortunately it didn’t work out. At that time there were no such institutions in Pakistan and no opportunities were provided.
“It was Mengmaji who gave me the first opportunity to climb. When he came to head the K2 for the second time, he added me to his team to serve as a porter at height. I haven’t looked back since. ”
The feat of climbing Naga Parbat for the first time in autumn
Sarbaz Khan says, “Now I had the support of Ali Sadpara. The great mountaineer was my teacher. In the eight-member team with him, I climbed the world’s most dangerous peak, Naga Parbat, in the fall of 2017. I am one of the team that surprised the world by climbing Naga Parbat for the first time in autumn.
Sarbaz Khan say “It is not enough for everyone to reach the top. It requires not only a strong body but also a strong mind. It is said in mountaineering that the first wrong step leads to death.
“It simply came to our notice then. Many times children are just dying. Something similar happened during the recent campaign. Mengmaji was guiding us in the campaign to behead Kanchenjunga. Our first campaign failed on the 27th of last month. ”
“The first time we were only 100 meters away from the peak, Mengmaji decided we would not go any further,” he said. It was very frustrating for me. He regretted missing his tenth peak from a distance of only 100 meters. But as I said, it’s not just a strong body, it’s a brain game. ”
Mengmaji decided to return because if we had traveled two and a half hours further to the summit, we would have had less time to return. There could be some damage in the dark and snow. One could die. Which is why this decision was taken and then it was decided that this decision is right.